Mae Khlong: A Rewarding Escape from Bangkok
Bangkok has so much for visitors to see and experience. From majestic palaces and holy temples; bustling waterways harking back to its name as ‘Venice of the East’; historic areas like Thonburi and all-consuming Chinatown; shopping from street-side hawkers or floating markets to the glittering mega modern shopping malls; entertainment of every description; the world-famous Thai food, and of course, the forever hospitable Thai people.
And you can never see and experience it all in one trip, which is perhaps why visitor numbers continue to grow every year – new and returning travellers discovering more of this fascinating and captivating city. It can also be overwhelming, and sometimes you just need to escape the chaos and cacophony of Bangkok for a day or so.
One such escape is Mae Khlong in Samut Songkhram Province – just 80 kilometres south-west of Bangkok. This region sits at the top of the Gulf of Thailand with seafood as a major industry. The township of Mae Khlong, seated astride the Mae Khlong River, is just eight kilometres from the coast as the river flows.
Along with the abundance of local seafood restaurants, Mae Khlong’s other attractions include the very popular and photogenic Mae Khlong railway market, along with Bang Kung Camp and Wat Bang Kung. On weekend evenings, the Amphawa floating markets also draw ravenous crowds. Here’s an overview of what you can see and do in these places.
Mae Khlong Railway Market
Centrally located, the original Mae Khlong Municipal Food (Wet) Market backs onto the Ban Laem train line, which terminates just a few hundred metres from Mae Khlong railway station – thus the colloquial name “railway market”.
The market sits within a purpose-built building and like many local Thai wet markets, offers a diverse range of fresh fruit and vegetables, pickled and dried foods, noodles and rice, and of course, the region’s fresh local seafood. Over time, it seems that the market has expanded out the rear of the building to consume both sides of the railway track immediately behind.
This second or overflow market is nicknamed Talat Rom Hup, meaning the "umbrella pulldown market". And that's exactly what happens - overhead awnings that cover the train tracks, stalls and their products are retracted so trains may pass. Produce has been so strategically placed that it does not need to be moved even though the train come within centimetres. And within seconds of the train passing, the awnings are rolled out, the produce dusted off and market life continues as if no such interruption happened.
The train driver regularly blasts the horn in warning of the incoming train. This is not a speeding train, in any case. Its progress through the market is also heralded by a State Railway of Thailand (SRT) linesman - whistle in mouth and flag-waving to move people out of the train’s way. And given that this market has become quite an attraction, the SRT staffer has a sizeable camera waving crowd to move off the tracks.
With approximately seven trains a day coming and going from Mae Khlong station, this is a remarkable sight. Locals use this train for ease of connection to neighbouring Samut Songkhram and Samut Sakhon. However, it is not an expeditious way to travel to Bangkok as it requires three train changes as well as a cross-river ferry ride to make one of these connections. This website has the details.
Mae Khlong (Wet) Market is open daily from 7.00 am to 4.00 pm, and as with all genuine Thai local markets, there is no entrance fee. Experiencing the railway market is worth a day trip from Bangkok, but the river communities of Mae Khlong have even more to offer, so read on.
Wat Bang Kung
Following the river west from Mae Khlong about 10 kilometres away, Bang Kung Camp and Wat Bang Kung are where history and nature collide. Wat Bang Kung dates back to the Ayutthaya-era of Siam's history (1350 to 1767). This was the site of a fierce 18th century battle between Siam (Thailand) and invaders from Burma.
As the story goes, the temple-turned-naval fort became a stubborn Siamese stronghold after the Burmese overran the Siam capital of Ayutthaya in 1767. Seafaring Burmese forces had blockaded the mouth of the Mae Khlong River. Siamese general (and later to be king) Taksin gathered hundreds if not thousands of warriors — many of them Chinese — at Bang Kung Camp. With Burmese naval and land forces surrounding the fort, an extended battle ensued. Taksin’s warriors held firm, and Bang Kung Camp never fell - a victory that turned the tide of the war towards the Siamese.
In the surrounding gardens are dozens of life-size concrete statues demonstrating the fighting skills of Taksin’s soldiers. Though graphic and dramatic, there are also depictions of Burmese prisoners being severely dealt with by their captors.
Well worth the visit, Wat Bang Kung is at once a Buddhist temple, a memorial to warrior heroism, and due recognition of Siamese history.
Amphawa Floating Market
Partway between Wat Bang Kung and the township of Mae Klong is the village of Amphawa. Thanks to local efforts in conserving the centuries-old teak wood homes and temples that line the village canals, Amphawa received a UNESCO cultural heritage award in 2008.
This region is characterised by a network of more than 300 canals (khlongs) which empty into the adjacent Mae Khlong River. It is naturally rich with an abundance of fruits, vegetables, salt fields, coconut palm sugar, river prawns and mackerel.
Visit Amphawa on weekend afternoons and evenings, and you can enjoy another significant attraction – the Amphawa floating market. The quaint Amphawa canal has elevated banks and weathered teak timber walkways with steps leading down to the water. Sounds of the hawkers calling from their canal-side sampans and the aromatic scents of freshly cooked seafood waft up.
Groups gather to buy whole steamed crabs, fried mackerel, grilled prawns, or stir-fried noodles from locals in their wooden boats. Most dishes are priced around the 100 baht mark, making for very economical and tasty eating.
Join a boat tour and experience the deep-throated motors on the longtail sampans whisking you through nearby canals, and to a section on the Mae Klong where fireflies appear at dusk.
The slim walkways along the canal's edge seem to magnify the sense of crowds, yet it's easy to pop into a little coffee shop for respite. And when your feet are ready to give up totally, there is always a therapeutic Thai massage studio waiting to relieve your weary limbs.
It feels like the market takes over the entire village. It's a very photogenic scene and a unique place to sample the area's food specialities. Amphawa’s floating market operates from 12 noon to 9.30 pm, Friday through Sunday only.
There are several options for getting from Bangkok and back, with the larger tour companies offering bulk tours. Public minibuses also operate from Bangkok’s Southern Bus Terminal to Mae Khlong (near the market) and return. Once on the ground, you will need a tuk tuk to get you from point to point. Or your hotel can connect you with a private minivan driver who can then take you where you want, and on your own schedule. It all depends on your budget and available time.
So, if looking to escape Bangkok, then a day discovering Mae Khlong and neighbouring Amphawa certainly presents an excellent option.
Header image: © Grace5648
