Baku: An Eclectic Blend of Old and New
Azerbaijan has, for the most part, never shown up on many people’s radars. Only the most curious of travelers have made it to this corner of the world and have been richly rewarded with a wealth of stunning locations.
Baku, the capital, is a curious city in itself. Most of the country remains rural or untouched but Baku has absorbed most of the income the country generates from oil and gas exports. This has allowed the city to flourish and become a thriving hub in the region, easily comparable to some big cities in Europe.
This post-Soviet era expansion has been both rapid and impressive, but resource mismanagement has led to a large wealth disparity between the capital and the country’s second-largest city, Ganja.
Unlike other oil-rich countries in the Middle East that have been recently built, Baku has a history dating back many centuries. This gives it a unique amalgamation of old and new, with glimmering high-rises being neighboured by buildings dating back more than 800 years.
A panoramic view of Baku at sunset. Image: Faik Nagiyev
The city offers an eclectic mix of Soviet influence, Eastern culture, and European aspiration, a trifecta that creates a one-of-a-kind city.
Baku’s modern development has seen an architectural renaissance, with each new building rivaling the next in obscurity. This trend lives side by side with perfectly preserved medieval structures creating a veneer tethered between millennia.
The Iconic Sights
The Flame Towers dominate the skyline of a city mostly devoid of skyscrapers. Named after their distinguishing shape, these towers house elite businesses like the Lamborghini Garage and Fairmont Hotel. They are just over 180m tall and are built on the upper part of the city, making them visible from nearly every vantage point.
The Heydar Aliyev Center is another standout location on Baku’s futuristic radar. The building is curved in an almost unbelievable fashion and is surrounded by a collection of weird and wonderful sculptures including a giant green snail and the famous “I <3 Baku” sign.
The Flame Towers dominate the city skyline. Image: Gerhard Reus
After laying eyes on the futuristic side of the city, walk along the ancient walls of the old city that are said to date back to the 7th century. Shirvanshas Palace was once the home of the Shirvanshas dynasty and has a stunning 15th century mosque as part of the complex. From the palace, you will also be able to enjoy marvelous views of the Flame Towers.
For a country built on the back of oil, surprisingly little is known about the industry. There are functioning oil extractors a short walk south of the Flame Towers. Apart from seeing drilling in action, you can enjoy panoramic views across the city too.
The main religion in Azerbaijan is Islam so a visit to a few picturesque mosques can be on the cards. Taza Pir Mosque is more than 100 years old but it is the newer Heydar Mosque that is the main religious attraction. At night, the mosque lights up in a grand fashion, a stunning spectacle backed by the emerald-blue dusk skies.
The Ateshgah Fire Temple is near Baku’s airport. Image: © Oleksii Liebiediev
Zoroastrianism is mainly practiced in Iran but their temples are found across Asia. The Ateshgah Fire Temple is one of their fire worship locations and one of the most popular attractions in the city. Gas that naturally escapes from the ground catches on fire as it comes in contact with oxygen, creating what is believed to be an inextinguishable flame. The temple was built in the 17th century and features a central altar with a flame from the main gas vent. There are also four smaller flames on the corners of the rooftop area.
Quirky Museums
Baku has a collection of some of the most interesting and quirky museums around. Forget trips to a run-of-the-mill history museum or a contemporary art institution (all still worth visiting though). Baku has several unexpected museums on offer.
Reach for your magnifying glass at The Museum of Miniature Books which boasts the world’s three tiniest books. This collection was once private but is now on display to the public free of charge.
The Azerbaijan Carpet Museum is a must-see, even if the idea of carpet weaving isn’t your cup of tea. The building’s eye-catching exterior is one of a kind as it is a literal interpretation of a rolled-up carpet. Inside you will find a wealth of artifacts on display, exploring the diverse cultural history of regional ethnicities across the country.
The Maiden Tower overlooks the Caspian Sea. Image: © David Astley
In the Old City area, known as Icherisheher, you must visit the Maiden Tower, an iconic piece of Azerbaijani history that dates back to the 12th century, perhaps further. The tower is featured on six of the 11 manat (₼) bills and was awarded UNESCO World Heritage Site status in 2001. From the highest tower, you will enjoy views over the Old City in one direction and the Caspian Sea in the other.
Art lovers should most definitely stop off at the Baku Museum of Modern Art, another architecturally profound building. Its angular interior houses hundreds of mid-century paintings and sculptures from the country’s most prolific artists but pieces by Dali and Picasso have also been donated by private collectors.
The Azerbaijan State Museum of Art is equally captivating with thousands of pieces from Azerbaijan, Russia, Iran, Turkey, and some European countries.
History buffs will undoubtedly enjoy exploring winding alleys of Icherisheher, as well as a trip to the Independence Museum of Azerbaijan where they can sink their teeth into propaganda-filled displays from Soviet times. The museum also touches on the more recent Karabakh conflict and tells the story of modern history leading up to the country’s independence in 1991.
Icherisheher is Baku’s charming Old City. Image: © David Astley
There are scores of other museums dotted across the city, all with notably low or absent entrance fees. It is well worth exploring even the most unassuming institutions as they all house some truly unique offerings thanks to Azerbaijan’s distinctive past.
Outside of the City
There are a couple of notable places you can easily reach outside of the city. Baku is built on the Caspian Sea but some of the beaches are too polluted to enjoy a resplendent day next to calm waters. Shikhov Beach is about 15 minutes south of the city center and has rows of colorful umbrellas and sun loungers lining the shore.
Bilgah Beach is 30 minutes northeast of the city and also boasts marvelous wide open sandy stretches along the calm water. For a more exclusive experience, visit a beach club like Amburan Beach Club which offers splendid clean facilities, a pool, and exclusive beach access.
Just an hour outside of the city is Qobustan where you can wind the clock back nearly 15,000 years. Hunters settled in these caves during the stone age and left their mark on the rock walls in the form of hundreds of petroglyphs. Close to this site you can also see the mud volcanoes that Azerbaijan is so famous for.
Bubbling hot mud ponds in the Gobustan National Park.
Nearly half of the world’s mud volcanoes are found in the country so a trip to see this natural wonder is a must. Gobustan National Park, where you will see these captivating spectacles, is another of the country’s UNESCO heritage sites.
Enjoy Local Cuisine
Food from Azerbaijan has roots in many regional cuisines from across the Middle East and Eastern Europe. They all come together to create a unique culinary experience defined by dark spices, succulent meats, and exceedingly aromatic herbs.
Plov is a dish that has transcended generations and is just as popular today as centuries ago. Its ingredient list might be short but there is no shortage of flavour in this mouthwatering dish. Long-grained rice is slowly cooked along with mutton, carrots, and garlic for a humble yet spellbinding staple. Shah plov is a more indulgent alternative where the rice and lamb are served with dried fruits in a fried dough crust.
Shah plov is a lavash traditional Azerbaijani meal. Image: © Eldar Farz
Dolma is a dish commonly seen across Eastern Europe and the Mediterranean. The bite-sized helpings consist of grape leaves wrapped around a flavourful mix of meat and spices. It is a surprisingly light dish and pairs well with other cold sides like bread and greens.
Meat makes up a big part of Azerbaijani cuisine and most variations still utilise traditional cooking methods. Saj ichi is a barbeque dish where lamb is cooked and served in a copper pan along with potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant, bell peppers, and onions.
Another dish that is bursting with flavour is Piti. This soup is prepared over several hours and lamb, baked chestnuts, and chickpeas are the main ingredients. Soak up this hearty liquid with some fluffy slices of bread for the ultimate indulgence. Buglama is also a lamb-based dish but could be replaced with chicken, fish, or tofu. This stew cooks over an open fire and is the perfect sharing dish.
Western chains like Starbucks have opened in Baku too. Image: Lala Azizli
While you are on the go, grab a Gutab from a street vendor, especially if you can find one prepared with camel meat. They are flat, crescent-shaped pies served with bright red sumac and yoghurt.
Other foods to try are kebabs, vegetable salads, yoghurt soup, stuffed or fried meat, chicken cooked in wine, Azerbaijani baklava, and Bozbash (the national soup of Azerbaijan). If you are craving for the less healthy western fast foods, you’ll find plenty of those too. You’ll even find chains like Starbucks in Baku these days.
Baku is a city steeped in history with many off-the-radar spots to discover. Café culture has started to blossom, galleries are opening left, right, and centre and everything is becoming more accessible and tourist friendly. Discover this city for yourself before it gets taken over by hordes of tourists inevitably ruin its enigmatic and ‘undiscovered’ atmosphere.
Header image: © Denis Sv
