Chasing Calm: Cambodia’s Southern Gem

Now, I know what you’re thinking—travel warnings, border tensions, and all that serious stuff. But honestly, even though I’m in the 50+ bracket and shouldn’t be so flippant, when wanderlust calls, who can resist?

My travel companion was a little on edge, but I was far too excited to worry—especially since we were a good 10 hours from the Thai-Cambodian border where all the drama had been happening.

Cambodia totally stole my heart the previous year when I first visited Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, then set sail down the dreamy Tonle Sap and Mekong Rivers to Saigon on a charming little teak ship called the Toum Tiou II.

This time, we were heading to Kep West on Cambodia’s southern coast for Christmas and New Year. It’s two hours from the capital, Phnom Penh, and a breezy 30km drive from the Vietnamese border. Was I worried? No! I just wanted more of this dreamy, under-the-radar country.

Iconic big crab sculpture protruding from the ocean at Kep, Cambodia. — Kep is known as the crab capital of Cambodia.

Thankfully, my instincts proved correct.

I don’t know why people still choose Bali, where it’s wet and steamy during the Christmas holiday. Yes, Bali’s a quick hop away, but trust me—within eight hours via Singapore to Cambodia, I was cocooned in a slice of serene paradise. Think endless blue skies, sun-kissed beaches, and the ocean’s rhythm working its magic on my soul. It was worth every single minute of flying time (and those extra miles on my frequent flyer account).

Peace and Beauty

Arriving around lunch time after a four-hour heritage train journey from Phnom Penh (so comfy and cheap at USD15 each in first class!), and a fifteen-minute hotel tuk-tuk drive, with our bags perched directly behind the driver (no straps), was our welcome introduction.

View of part of the Kep West resort area in southern Cambodia looking across to green densely forested hills from The Wave restaurant. — View across Kep West to our 1950s villa from The Wave.

Kep West didn’t disappoint. Its picture-perfectness had me wide-eyed. Surrounded by lush, verdant vegetation-covered craggy hillsides cascading to translucent aquamarine waters lapping ivory-sand beaches serenely void of crowds, the visual appreciation and tranquillity were heavenly.

If your passport’s itching for a stamp and your heart craves relaxation, privacy and exploration, Knai Bang Chatt, a small resort (only 18 rooms) on a huge expanse of oceanfront countryside in Kep West, should be at the top of your list. This oasis on Cambodia’s southern edge is pure magic—enchanting, rejuvenating, and guaranteed to give you all the best travel feels.

Each morning, I woke up to the gentle applause of waves and a salty breeze dancing through my villa. And those skies—oh, the sunrises and sunsets looked like Mother Nature’s own Instagram filter!

Young men playing soccer on a yellow sandy beach under a blue sky at Kep in southern Cambodia. — Locals play soccer on beautiful Kep beach.

Kep used to be the glamorous playground for Cambodia’s elite, and it still oozes charm—just with a fresh twist of laid-back luxury. Forget the city chaos; here, you’ll wander quiet lanes, chill on palm-lined shores, and soak up a calm that feels almost like a secret.

The surrounding landscape is a patchwork of salt farms, rice fields, pepper plantations, and the iconic limestone outcrops of Kep National Park, where adventurous souls can hike to panoramic viewpoints or simply soak in the serenade of cicadas and birdlife.

A Fascinating Story

Peel back the layers of Kep, and you’ll discover a destination rich in history and culture.

Founded in the early 20th century as a seaside retreat for French colonialists and the Cambodian aristocracy, Kep was once dubbed the ‘St Tropez of Southeast Asia’. Grand villas dotted the coastline, and their weathered remains, or modern makeovers today, serve as reminders of the town’s golden era.

Green and red fishing boats unloading catch under a clear blue sky at Kep in southern Cambodia. — Fishermen unload their morning catch at Kep.

Despite the passage of time—and the scars left by conflict—Kep has rekindled its spirit with a blend of old-world glamour and contemporary creativity. The town’s markets burst with local crafts, vibrant produce, Kampot pepper and salt, while the nearby crab market is legendary for its fresh seafood and cheerful chaos.

The Resort Architecture, Design, and Luxury

At the heart of this coastal paradise lies Knai Bang Chatt, meaning a rainbow ring around the light, exactly what Belgian creator and owner Jef Moons saw in 2003 while looking at the three original crumbling colonial villas.

Today, this boutique resort effortlessly weaves modern comfort with historical elegance. The resort’s villas, meticulously restored around the original 1950s Cambodian elite structures by French architect Françoise Lavielle, are masterpieces of minimalist design and timeless sophistication.

Interior of a hotel room at the Knai Bang Chatt resort at Kep West in southern Cambodia. — The stylish interior of our room at Knai Bang Chatt.

These extraordinary historical landmarks are your very own private home. Think airy, whitewashed walls, concrete-floored rooms with billowing linen curtains, handcrafted, locally polished timber furnishings, and private verandas overlooking tranquil gardens, a serene pool, and the shimmering sea.

Here, luxury isn’t flashy—it just wraps around you like a soft sarong. The amazing staff seem to know what you want before you do. Whether I was lounging under a frangipani tree with a cocktail or wandering the dreamy gardens, Knai Bang Chatt redefined ‘treat yourself’ in the best way possible.

Farm-to-Table Culinary Delights

If you’re a foodie, prepare for your taste buds to be dazzled. Knai Bang Chatt’s culinary philosophy celebrates the region’s abundant produce and legendary seafood. Ingredients are sourced from the resort’s own organic gardens, local farms, and the daily catch from Kep’s fishermen, ensuring every meal is as fresh and flavoursome as it gets.

Man in chef's uniform smiling at camera and harvesting lemon grass in a tropical walled orchard. — Chef Chuon Sokheng in the organic vegetable and herb garden.

Executive Chef Chuon Sokheng and his talented team ensure all menus are freshly seasonal, and dance between classic Khmer flavours and contemporary twists.

A native Cambodian, Chef Sokheng brings his extensive Cambodian, Korean, Japanese and broader Asian training to each taste-tingling mouthful. Savour zesty green mango salads, fragrant curries, carpaccio, topped with fine cheese shavings and capers, perfectly crisp seafood and vegetable pizza, grilled crab with Kampot pepper and more. Breads and pastries are all baked on site and are irresistible! Beverages feature everything from fresh, chilled coconut water and tropical smoothies to fine French and Australian wines.

Meals are not confined to the resort’s Strand Restaurant either. A short stroll on the opposite side of the resort, The Wave, a public seafront bar, adds a touch of sociability to the otherwise serene setting. The modern concrete-and-glass building incorporates the casual Café Grande, Crab & Co fine dining, and The Deck for sunset tapas and cocktails. It’s a favourite among locals and visiting business travellers who drop in for cocktails, culinary delights, and sunsets. Quality is assured as Chef Sokheng oversees every venue.

A tray of canapes and a glass of rose wine on a table with a woman in the background looking out to sea over a railing at a sunset on the horizon. — Sunset canapes on The Deck at The Wave.

Wherever you choose to dine, even if it’s a private dining dinner, each meal is enjoyed with sweeping views of the Gulf of Thailand, dotted with more than 13 islands in the Kep Archipelago, and accompanied by gentle waves licking the shore.

Nourish Body and Soul

Knai Bang Chatt isn’t just a place to rest—it’s a sanctuary for wellness and renewal.

Days begin with sunrise yoga on the lawn or deck, with breezes drifting in as you stretch and breathe to the ocean’s soundtrack.

My absolute fave? Spa time! The therapists work magic with natural oils and soothing hands—I left every session feeling like I could float all the way home.

A reflection in a wall mirror of two female massage therapists giving back massages to two female clients. — The expert massage therapists at work in the spa.

The resort’s wellness offerings extend far beyond the treatment room, though. A leisurely swim in the saltwater pool is forever beckoning. There are bicycles to borrow for a scenic ride through Kep’s countryside or take time out at a meditation session in the garden.

For those seeking adventure, kayaking, sailing, guided hikes in the national park, sunset cruises, and island hopping around the gulf are all on offer. However you choose to unwind, you’ll find yourself recharged and inspired by the rhythm of nature.

Regenerative Initiatives

Knai Bang Chatt is deeply committed to regenerative tourism, ensuring that every guest experience positively impacts Kep’s local community and environment.

Through collaborative initiatives with the Marine Conservation Cambodia (MCC), the resort supports vital marine restoration projects, including seagrass and coral propagation, as well as community education on sustainable fishing practices. Guests are invited to join privately guided eco-tours to view MCC in action, assist in beach clean-ups, and join cultural workshops that directly benefit local livelihoods and foster meaningful.

Mangrove seedlings growing in a muddy river estuary at low tide.. — Funding mangrove plantings is one of the resort’s initiatives.

For every stay in 2026, the resort is funding the planting of 10 mangrove seedlings along the Kep coast in partnership with MCC and local mangrove community members.

Knai Bang Chatt not only strengthens the regional economy but also celebrates authentic Cambodian heritage. Staying here becomes more than a holiday—it’s a chance to give back and help preserve Kep’s unique coastal ecosystem.

Safety and Peace of Mind

So, did we see any signs of unrest or conflict during our stay? No. Not even during our travels to and from Phnom Penh, or in the capital. But it was disheartening to learn that, during my stay, two groups of 10 Japanese people cancelled due to the travel warnings. (They don’t know what they missed!)

A grilled seafood lover’s dinner at Crab & Co, Kep West, Cambodia. — A grilled seafood lover’s dinner at Crab & Co.

I want others to rest easy—Kep and Knai Bang Chatt are far from any drama. This region is famous for its peace, its big-hearted locals, and a vibe that’s all about warm welcomes. The only ‘action’ you’ll find here? Palm trees swaying, waves whispering, and laughter echoing over epic dinners.

The resort’s team is well-versed in supporting international visitors, ensuring that your stay is comfortable, informed, and secure.

As always, it’s wise to check the latest travel advisories before departure, but you can plan your visit with confidence, knowing that tranquillity, not turmoil, awaits you.

Wide exterior view of The Strand restaurant at Knai Bang Chatt resort, Kep West, Cambodia surrounded by tall coconut palms under a blue sky. — The Strand restaurant at Knai Bang Chatt resort.

In a world that moves ever faster, I can honestly say that my week at Knai Bang Chatt in Kep West, Cambodia, was a rare invitation to slow down, reconnect, and rediscover the simple pleasures of life and travel. With its breathtaking scenery, storied past, and unwavering commitment to hospitality and community, this overlooked jewel on Cambodia’s coast is the perfect escape for those seeking both adventure and calm.

Whether you’re drawn by the promise of golden sunsets, the allure of Khmer cuisine, or the assurance of deep relaxation, Kep West and Knai Bang Chatt provide a transformative experience that will linger long after you return home. So, pack your brightest smile and let Kep’s gentle magic sweep you off your feet—you’ll be dreaming about your next visit before you even leave!