Kampot: A Riverside Town Where Travellers Linger
For the past week, I’d been chilling out at Knai Bang Chatt seaside resort at Kep West, a 30km drive from the Vietnamese border. Everyone kept saying I needed to see Kampot—and not just a drive-through look-see.
Arriving in Kampot after a relaxed 30-minute drive from Kep West, I was greeted by a scene that felt like an instant warm embrace. The river sparkled beneath the afternoon sun, and a gentle, wafting breeze brought a faint, peppery scent through the air, tingling my nostrils. Bicycle bells chimed in the distance, and locals smiled as we drove past. It was a bustling town, buzzing with a joyful energy, its streets alive with friendly faces and the promise of much more activity.
However, if you’re after the chaotic buzz of a big city, you won’t find it here. Instead, Kampot offers something beautifully different. With a population of around 35,000, it hums with a laid-back, provincial, welcoming spirit that invites you to slip on your sandals and meander along the riverside, a coconut in hand. Here, time slows down, conversations linger, and you quickly feel like a local—even if your Khmer barely stretches to “suosdei” (hello).
A Taste of History
Kampot wears its history with pride. Graceful French colonial façades line the main street, while weathered shophouses have been lovingly transformed into lively bars, cosy boutiques, and welcoming guesthouses. Wandering Kampot’s dreamy streets, you can almost hear echoes of its storied past as a bustling port, pepper and salt carried by the river breeze to far-off places.
An upmarket restaurant in a restored colonial building.
Every corner here tells a story, layered with French, Khmer, and Chinese influences, each leaving a subtle mark on the architecture and local culture. Don’t be surprised if you lose track of time ambling between pastel-painted buildings, listening to the river lap against the quay, and catching snippets of stories from street-side elders.
So, why do travellers keep flocking to Kampot?
Personally, I think it’s the warmth of the locals, the charm of family-run guesthouses, and an irresistible blend of calm and creativity that draws people in. Artists painting beside the river, musicians playing as the sun dips low, and coffee shops doubling as cosy galleries.
Restaurants and bars along Riverside Road, Kampot.
The pace is gentle, encouraging you to relax, yet Kampot always has a surprise in store—a rooftop yoga session, a tucked-away cocktail bar, or a sunset cruise that transforms into a spontaneous dance party. The real magic? It’s in the way Kampot weaves tradition and innovation, riverside serenity and jungle adventure, into one unforgettable tapestry.
Kampot on a Plate
A self-confessed foodie, I was keen to sample everything from street-side snacks to chef-driven feasts. My mornings started with a flat white at Café Espresso, situated along the scenic Preaek Tuek Chhu River. It's a great place to experience the local cafe culture, and a favourite haunt for expats, digital nomads, and anyone craving a taste of home.
For breakfast, I couldn’t go past a fresh baguette stuffed with Kampot pepper sausage at the morning market—simple, spicy, and seriously satisfying.
The popular Rikitikitavi restaurant on Riverside Road.
Come lunchtime, Simple Things, a vegan café, had been recommended (I know what you’re thinking), but seriously, their pancakes are the fluffiest I’ve ever devoured, and the garden courtyard is perfect for lazy afternoons.
My real culinary highlight, though, was late afternoon cocktails and dinner at Rikitikitavi (they also have a small selection of accommodation on the ground level – which is my pick for next time). Perched on the riverbank, this rooftop restaurant dishes up everything from fragrant Khmer amok to zingy fish tacos, best enjoyed with a local craft beer, international wine, or cocktails as the sun dips behind Bokor Mountain and the quayside lights twinkle in the languid river. Their Happy Hour, two-for-one cocktails, is not to be missed, drawing in the locals and expats alike.
Sunset view across the river from the Rikitikitavi restaurant.
Nightlife in Kampot is all about mood and music. Head to The Fishmarket for riverside cocktails and live bands, or duck into the hidden speakeasy, The Hive, for inventive drinks and a chat with fellow wanderers. If you’re after a classic pub vibe, The Rusty Keyhole serves up legendary ribs and a good beverage selection, making it a top spot to swap travel stories.
Shopping in Kampot
Shopping here isn’t about glitzy malls—it’s all about local colour and character. The Old Market is a sensory overload of spices, fabrics, and souvenirs, where haggling is half the fun. Don’t leave without a sachet (or three) of Kampot pepper—prized by chefs worldwide and the perfect pressie for anyone back home who loves to cook.
One of the busy local markets in Kampot town.
For something unique, head to Dorsu, a fair-trade boutique turning upcycled fabrics into stylish, ethical clothing. Art lovers will find inspiration in Tiny Kampot Pillows, a pocket-sized shop filled with whimsical handmade cushions and textiles stitched by local artisans.
What to See and Do
Booking a last-minute English-speaking tuk-tuk guide in Kampot turned out to be the best decision of my trip—what a ripper! My guide, Taven, greeted me with a dazzling grin and stories that brought the city to life. Born and bred here, he knew every alley and secret spot, sharing his passion for his hometown and a few cheeky jokes along the way.
We zipped through Kampot’s bustling streets, marvelling at preserved French colonial buildings, the quirky Durian Roundabout, and the Old Market—their aromatic spices knocking my socks off.
Kampot’s new Clock Tower of Peace on Fish Island.
After crossing the historic Old Bridge, Taven showed me the riverside magic of Fish Island, a slice of paradise surrounded by water, home to colourful Buddhist temples and Kampot’s new Clock Tower of Peace built in 2024. Its Khmer-style design and melodic bell chimes felt like a movie moment!
We stopped at Wat Traeuy Kaoh, soaking up tranquil river views and the gentle hum of local life. Every turn was a surprise: vibrant markets, boat restaurants, and epic river views. With Taven’s insider knowledge and infectious energy, exploring Kampot by tuk-tuk was an absolute adventure—a cracking way to see Cambodia’s heart and soul.
Beyond the charm of the town itself, Kampot is a launchpad for adventures. Hire a pushbike, scooter or tuk-tuk driver and cruise out to the salt fields at sunrise, watching workers rake shimmering crystals against a backdrop of water buffalo and open sky. Pepper plantations dot the surrounding countryside. Take a tour at La Plantation to see, smell, and taste Kampot’s famous spice straight from the vine.
The impressive entrance to Wat Traeuy Kaoh on Fish Island.
A day trip to Bokor Hill Station offers a dash of mystery and drama, with mist-shrouded ruins, a quirky old casino, and panoramic views over the Gulf of Thailand. If waterfalls are more your thing, head to Teuk Chhou Rapids for a picnic and a refreshing dip. For chilled-out afternoons, the riverside beckons: hire a kayak, join a sunset cruise, or simply watch the world float by from a hammock strung between two palm trees.
People Make the Place
It’s the people who truly make Kampot unforgettable—shopkeepers with easy smiles, tuk-tuk drivers keen to share local tips, and fellow travellers swapping tales over bowls of noodle soup. I chatted with a pepper farmer at the market, and a local artist sketched my portrait in exchange for a coffee—a trade I’ll treasure long after the drawing fades.
It’s these moments of kindness, shared laughter, and genuine connection that turn a trip into something extraordinary. That’s the spirit of Cambodia, and it’s easy to see why so many visitors linger in Kampot, captivated by its heartwarming hospitality.
The La Plantation shop sells some of the world’s best peppers.
As I packed my bags (slightly heavier with pepper, textiles, and a few too many mementos), I realised Kampot had quietly worked its way into my heart. It’s a place that rewards the curious, the creative, and anyone who values genuine connections over mere sightseeing.
If you dream of a getaway filled with laughter, friendship, and the soulful rhythms of local life, Kampot is waiting to welcome you. Come for the river sunsets and peppery feasts—stay for the stories, friendships, and a taste of Cambodia at its most authentic.
Images: © Nannette Holliday
