Pamukkale: Turkey’s World Heritage Blend of History and Nature
With over two million visitors a year, one of the outstanding attractions of Turkey is the UNESCO World Heritage site of Hierapolis - Pamukkale. This historical and photogenic landmark, situated in the south-west province of Denizli, should be a ‘must see’ on your destination list. The abundance of hot thermal springs in this region contributed to the emergence of the unique ancient Greco-Roman town of Hierapolis.
Entry to this fascinating archeological site follows a circular rose garden leading to an easy uphill walk along a pathway interspersed with palm trees and red poppies flowering among the fields of scattered ruins to reach the impressive thermal mineral springs. The springs have served those seeking the healing powers of the waters to soothe a range of ailments since antiquity and have long been one of the draw cards to the area.
This magical landscape of dazzling white travertine basins filled with mineralized waters, rises 200 metres from a cliff and cascades down the hill in a series of spreading terraces. It is the white calcium carbonate of the terraces that contributes to this spectacular visual setting. In Turkish, the name Pamukkale translates to ‘cotton castles’, a fitting name for such a striking panorama.
The spectacular travertine terraces of Pamukkale. Image: © Vin Coffey
It’s an impressive site to be overlooking the beauty of these terraces to the plains below where the small town of Pamukkale sits at the base of the springs. Despite the number of visitors (we were there in May) there is ample space to get up close and really experience this wonder of nature -- although to protect this fragile environment, tourists are expected to adhere to visitor information signs and stay on guided pathways. There are some sections of the travertines that are off limits, and other sections where paddling in the water is permitted.
Located just above the travertine terraces is Cleopatra’s pool (also known as the Antique Pool) aptly named because it is said to be the pool that Cleopatra VII, considered to be the last Egyptian Pharaoh, swam in. It is believed this pool, which is now accessible to the public, was given to Cleopatra by Marc Anthony as a wedding gift while in Turkey.
A two-hour entry ticket into the facility will allow you to swim in the clear, warm waters of this Roman pool. In some sections care is needed to navigate the remains of ancient stone relics and partly submerged marble columns, the result of an earthquake in the 7th century which destroyed the surrounding statues and columns toppling them into the pool.
Wild poppies in flower around the ruins of Hierapolis. Image: © Vin Coffey
It can be a busy place during the middle of the day, so arriving early or later in the day allows for some freedom from the crowds. Changing rooms are available and for a small fee you can hire a locker. Small cafes offer a selection of food and drinks, although it can be expensive compared to what is on offer in the village. If you arrive on a bus tour you are likely to automatically get a two-hour pass to the pool, so even if you don’t intend to swim, the area is a pleasant place to spend a couple of hours, sitting in the shade of the trees sipping Turkish tea and contemplating the life of Cleopatra!
Nearby, the remains of ancient Hierapolis (known as a Holy City) are testimony to what was once an important centre during the Greco-Roman era and later the Byzantine period. Founded in the 2nd century BC, in an area susceptible to earthquakes, this city was rebuilt a number of times during the ensuing centuries as a result of the impact of earthquakes. A major earthquake destroyed the city’s identity in the 7th century and following another powerful earthquake in the 14th century the town was left in ruins and eventually deserted.
Today, the ruins of Hierapolis which include baths, temples, a monumental arch, and a necropolis are spread over a wide area. A detailed map will give you an overview of how extensive the site is and where to locate sections of interest such as the remains of the magnificent ancient theatre built during the time of the Roman emperor, Hadrian, in the 2nd Century.
The magnificent ancient Roman theatre at Hierapolis. Image: © Vin Coffey
It’s a bit of an uphill climb to reach the remains of the theatre which was rebuilt in 60 AD following a destructive earthquake. As you enter from the top of the theatre you will be afforded a spectacular view of the semi-circular seating area (which supposedly held 20,000 people) looking down to the theatre’s ornate stage and out to the valley in the distance. It’s worth the climb.
During the Christian period from the 4th century, historical information suggests that Jesus’ disciple Philip was crucified at Hierapolis although there are conflicting reports as to the identity of Philip. Was it Philip the Apostle or Philip the Evangelist? Nevertheless, the remains of the octagonal, hilltop Martyrium of St Philip, constructed in the 5th century, is located just outside the city walls, despite no trace being found of his grave. In more recent times archeologists believe they have found Philip’s tomb in a newly excavated church nearby which was built around the same time as the Martyrium.
The Hierapolis Archeology Museum, once the old Roman Baths, contains three unique sections of relics unearthed during field excavations on the site including some reliefs which decorated the stage of the theatre. Elaborately embellished and carefully preserved marble figures and tombs inhabit the Tombs and Statues Gallery, and while it is not a large museum, the carefully restored artifacts give a deeper insight into this ancient civilization.
A columned sarcophagus from 84 AD in the museum. Image: © Vin Coffey
In the valley, surrounded by farmland is the small rural village of Pamukkale, an ideal base for exploring the area. While there is not a lot to do in the town, there is plenty of accommodation ranging from budget to luxurious at very reasonable prices with plenty of food outlets offering amazingly fresh, authentic Turkish food. Many of the hotels are not much more than a 15-minute walk to the travertine terraces, although the Venus Suite hotel operates a regular free shuttle service for their guests, and taxis are available.
If you are staying further afield in Selçuk, Izmir, Marmaris or Bodrum there are plenty of operators who run daily tours to Pamukkale. However, as we found, travel times can be long and this will cut into the amount of time you get to spend at the site. There is an extensive bus network in Turkey and many of the buses going to Pamukkale will arrive in Denizli and arrange a free shuttle bus for you to Pamukkale. From Istanbul, Turkish Airlines offer daily one-hour flights to Denizli Cardak Airport where you can get the airport shuttle or a taxi to Pamukkale.
The best time to travel to Pamukkale is in spring (April to June) and autumn (September to October) when the temperatures are pleasantly warm for swimming and exploring the ancient ruins. The summer months of July and August can be very uncomfortable weather-wise and without much shade the sun can be blisteringly hot. Sunglasses, water and sunscreen are a must. Summer can also be very crowded. The winter months can be extremely cold and may have snow falls, but if you don’t mind the cold, winter can be a great time to explore the area due to the lack of crowds.
Header image: © Vin Coffey
