Turkey Travel Guide
Turkey is the gateway to Asia for those travelling from Europe. It attracts more international visitors each year than any other country in Asia aside from China. While popular with backpackers and those travelling on a budget, it appeals to all categories of older travellers because of its milder climate compared to other countries in the Middle East, and the large number of unique historical, cultural and geographic attractions within its borders.
Nearly 50 million people visited Turkey in 2019 and most of their time was spent in one or more of the five regions listed below in the eastern half of the country. But Turkey is a country with many other interesting destinations throughout its three-quarters of a million square kilometres of land area across three climatic zones.
The ruins of the ancient city of Ephesus. Image: © Francesco Venier
That is especially so for history buffs because Turkey has some of the world’s best preserved buildings from medieval times, and throughout the country there are castles, palaces, churches and mosques that are in almost original condition from the six centuries of the Ottoman Empire which was founded in 1299 and then dissolved in 1922 when the Republic of Turkey was established.
Turkey also has many ruins of cities and settlements from the Byzantine era and ancient times earlier than that. The ruins of the city of Ephesus on Turkey’s west coast is one of the country’s most popular attractions for those interested in ancient history, whilst the Neolithic monoliths of Göbeklitepe in eastern Turkey and the ruins of Hattusas – the former capital of the Hittite Empire – in central Turkey, give history buffs a good reason to travel the length and breadth of the country.
Istanbul
Most of the places that visitors will want to see in the city of Istanbul are actually located on the European side of the Bosphorus Strait, but this is the side on which most visitors will arrive as the main Istanbul airport – Ataturk International Airport – handles most of the international flights. Sabiha Gokcen Airport on the Asian side handles mostly regional and domestic flights.
There are four places in Istanbul that are often referred to as the “Big Four” which every first-time visitor, whatever their interests, should not miss. They are the Hagia Sofia, the Topkapi Palace, the Blue Mosque and the Grand Bazaar. They are located within walking distance of each other at the southern end of the Bosphorus Strait on the peninsula between the Marmara Sea and the Golden Horn.
Istanbul’s Hagia Sofia viewed from the Bosphorus Strait. Image: © falco
The Hagia Sofia was completed in AD537 as the main cathedral of the Byzantine empire and converted to a mosque in 1453 when Istanbul (or Constantinople as it was known then) fell to the Ottoman empire, and then to a museum in 1935. In a controversial decision in 2020, it was converted back to a mosque. The Topkapi Palace on the Bosphorus Strait is an opulent palace complex built in the 15th century, and the Blue Mosque on the other side of the Hagia Sofia was built in the 17th century. All are magnificent and very impressive historic buildings.
For those more interested in shopping than history, the Grand Bazaar is usually the highlight of a visit to Istanbul. The bazaar complex is one of the oldest and largest covered markets in the world with over 4,000 shops and stalls. It is said to have the largest selection of antiques, furniture, jewelry, gold, precious stones, carpets, fabrics, clothing and leather goods of any market in the world. Visitors can easily spend a day there. The Spice Bazaar is also popular with tourists. It’s a little further away but still within walking distance.
Istanbul’s attractions are not limited to the Big Four. The city has dozens of other historic buildings, museums, art galleries, parks, restaurants and cafes to keep even the most experienced travellers enthralled for at least a week – and that’s before you’ve even crossed over to the Asian side of the Bosphorus Strait.
Turkish Riviera
There are various definitions of what comprises the Turkish Riviera but most refer to that part of the country’s Mediterranean coast between Kaş and Alanya around the Gulf of Antalya. The city of Antalya, which has about 750,000 inhabitants, is located at the centre of the Riviera and most international visitors arriving in the region do so through Antalya airport, the country’s second busiest.
Antalya itself is regarded as Turkey’s tourism capital and it’s a major destination for tourists from Russia and Germany. To the east and west of Antalya are many resort towns with a wide range of accommodation options, the best known of which are Kaş, Çıralı, Kener, Side and Alanya. The seaside towns of Çıralı and Side are a little quieter than the others, so may suit older travellers better.
Holiday homes overlooking the Mediterranean Sea at Antalya. Image: © falco
The Turkish Riviera offers visitors the opportunity to enjoy a Mediterranean beach holiday at prices much cheaper than they would pay in France or Italy, or even Greece. There are also many historical sites within easy driving distance of the resort towns, as well as a number of natural attractions worth visiting. Renting a car is easy in Turkey, or alternatively day-trips can be booked through the many travel agencies in the resort towns.
Antalya has a wide range of attractions in and around its environs including a cable car up to the peak of the Tunektepe hill for an excellent view of the city, the nearby ruins of the ancient city of Perge (also spelled Perga) and several waterfalls in national park reserves on the northern side of the city. The flaming rocks of Mount Chimaera near Çıralı have been burning for over 2,500 years and are another natural attraction that many visitors like to see.
Turquoise Coast
As with the Turkish Riviera, there are varying definitions of what comprises the Turquoise Coast, but it’s generally accepted to refer to that part of the Mediterranean coast that is facing roughly southwest as the coastline turns up into the Aegean Sea. Bodrum is usually considered to represent the northwestern end of the Turquoise Coast and Kaş the southeastern end, although many consider the region around Kaş to be an overlap area between the Turquoise Coast and the Turkish Riviera. Some even use both terms interchangeably to refer to all of the Mediterranean coast right up to Izmir.
Bodrum, Marmaris and Fethiya are the main towns on that part of the southwest coast facing the Aegean Sea and there are many small resorts along the coves and peninsulas between those towns to suit travellers who want to get away from the crowds. Butterfly Valley near Fethiya is a nice scenic spot to hike to if you are fit, but there are several steep sections where you’ll need to hold onto ropes, so for older travellers it may be a better to join a boat trip and go straight to the beach at the seaward end of Butterfly Valley.
The Ölüdeniz free public beach on the Turquoise Coast. Image: © sulox32
All along the Turquoise Coast, there are tour operators offering boat trips which may take in some of the offshore islands. The day-long trips will include a lunch onboard or at a resort restaurant, with or without alcoholic beverages. The quality of the catering is very much dependent on the price of the tour so it’s worth checking online reviews before you make reservations.
While Bodrum is best known for its well-preserved 15th century castle, the whole of the Bodrum peninsula has been gaining a good reputation as a foodies destination in recent years. Head to Gümüşlük for fresh seafood. For those looking to get away from the more touristy areas of the Turquoise Coast, the towns of Foça and Behramkale north of Izmir provide older travellers an opportunity to experience living with the locals. Accommodation in these smaller towns is generally limited to 3-4 star hotels and home-stays. Between Bodrum and Izmir is the town of Selçuk at which many travellers make an overnight stopover to visit Ephesus.
Pamukkale
Aside from Istanbul’s Big Four attractions, the two destinations in Turkey that are most often photographed and associated with the country are the beautiful white and turquoise blue travertine terraces and thermal pools of Pamukkale, and the fairy-tale landscape of Cappadocia – widely regarded as one of the best locations in the world for hot-air ballooning. Pamukkale is the easiest to reach from either Istanbul, the Turkish Riviera or the Turquoise Coast.
Travellers around the world have been visiting the travertine terraces of Pamukkale for thousands of years. These days visitors are not permitted to walk on the terraces because they were being damaged by centuries of foot traffic. You are, however, allowed to walk on the travertine paths to the top of the hill to view the terraces from above – but no shoes are allowed, so you’ll need to bring a bag for your footwear and a towel to dry your feet.
The spectacular travertine terraces of Pamukkale. Image: © Jillian Huntley
Pamukkale attracts over a million visitors a year and these days the terraces are not in the same condition as they were 20-30 years ago. Most of the photographs that you see in tourist brochures were taken in the years before many of the thermal pools dried up. However, there are still sufficient pools with water that show the beauty of these spectacular terraces. There are some pools in which swimming is allowed but these are man-made pools made to look like the original terraces.
It was hoped that Pamukkale’s designation as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1988 would prevent further deterioration. Despite the damage to the original terraces caused by mass tourism, most visitors still say Pamukkale is one of the natural wonders of the world and do not regret the long journey to visit. To best experience Pamukkale you should stay overnight nearby and visit in the morning because the day-trippers from Istanbul or the Turquoise Coast usually don’t arrive until early afternoon. The ruins of the ancient city of Hierapolis on the hill above the Pamukkale terraces are worth a visit too.
Cappadocia
Located in Central Turkey and therefore more difficult to reach, Cappadocia is an arid area of weathered geological formations including canyons, ‘fairy chimneys’ and other rock formations that some people say reminds them of scenes from fairy tales, while others say the region reminds them of the landscape of alien planets as portrayed in science fiction movies.
Whichever way you see Cappadocia through your own eyes, it’s a photographer’s dream. The spectacular scenery of the Cappadocia region is the result of three million years of erosion of volcanic deposits and three thousand years of habitation during which time underground cities were built and people carved out cave houses and places of worship in the soft volcanic rock pinnacles and cliffs.
Hot air balloons float over an ancient landscape in Cappadocia. Image: © Alfred Lichenauer
It’s this amazing geological phenomenon that has so much human history attached to it that makes Cappadocia unique in the world, and it is for that reason Cappadocia attracts over two million visitors a year. But people also come here to experience hot-air ballooning over the surreal landscapes. Cappadocia has an ideal climate for ballooning, and on any morning in the spring to autumn months, there are up to 150 balloons in the air — more than at any other location on the planet.
Fortunately, Cappadocia has some of the highest safety standards in the world for hot-air ballooning so it’s an excellent destination for first-time ballooners or nervous flyers. The best towns in which to stay in Cappadocia for the most authentic experiences are Göreme (where most of the ballooning companies are based), Guzelyurt, Uçhisar and Ürgüp.
Cappadocia is not as easy to reach as Turkey’s other main attractions, but if you are not keen on driving long distances there is an international airport at Kayseri, 75 km away to the east, and a domestic airport called Nevsehir Kapadokya Airport about 40 km to the west. There are also efficient bus services from all regions of Turkey. Unlike many other countries in Asia, in Turkey the buses run on time.
Best months to visit Turkey
We mentioned in the introduction to this guide that Turkey has three climatic zones. The one that attracts most visitors is the Mediterranean zone along the southern coast and on the Aegean Sea which has warm, dry summers and mild but wet winters. Then there’s the Black Sea zone in the north which has a temperate climate and is wet all year round. And between the two is the Continental zone which has hot, dry summers and cold, harsh winters.
For the Mediterranean zone, Turkey is an all-year-round destination with the spring and autumn months providing the most comfortable temperatures. In Antalya the hottest months are July and August when maximum temperatures average 32°C and there will be zero rainfall. The coldest months are December and January when maximum temperatures average only 15°C. Those two months are also the wettest months on the Turkish Riviera.
Around Istanbul, July and August are also the hottest months when maximum temperatures average 29°C but the coldest months are January and February when the average maximum temperatures are less than 10°C. It can rain in Istanbul at any time of the year, but November to February are the wettest months. The period May to September is generally considered to be the best time to visit Istanbul, or the two months either side of that period if you don’t mind cooler weather and a few more rainy days.
In Cappadocia and other regions of central Turkey, summer temperatures are similar to that of the Mediterranean zone but in the winter it can be bitterly cold with overnight temperatures below zero from November to March. The best months to visit Cappadocia are July to September. May and June are fairly warm too, but there are more rainy days in those months. Many balloon companies only operate from April to November in Cappadocia because those are the months with the most favourable weather conditions. From December to March flights are often cancelled because of strong winds or snow.
Currency and exchange rates
The Turkish lira has been the currency of Turkey since 1923 when it replaced the Ottoman lira. The Turkish lira is not a currency that you want to hang onto after a holiday for future trips because every year since it came into existence it has steadily depreciated. After World War II it was trading at 2.6 lira to the US dollar, but by 2005 it was worth only 1,350,000 lira to the dollar.
In 2005 the Turkish Government removed six zeros from the currency and printed new bank notes but since then the lira has continued to depreciate from 1.35 lira to the dollar to around 7.35 lira today. It’s therefore advisable to exchange only enough currency into Turkish lira upon your arrival in Turkey that you will need for your stay.
If you do run out of local currency whilst in Turkey, many places in cities and towns frequented by tourists will take euros or US dollars instead, but the exchange rates they will apply may not be as good as you will get in a currency exchange shop (which in Turkey are known as Döviz Bürosu). Alternatively, there are plenty of ATMs in tourist areas from which you can draw cash using your credit or debit card, but Turkish banks apply a fee of around 3-4% in addition to whatever your home bank charges for overseas withdrawals.
As is the case in most Asian countries, the currency exchange shops offer better rates and lower commissions than banks, airport exchange desks or ATMs. Given the large number of international tourists in Turkey, credit cards are widely accepted, but you will find that some tour operators offer good discounts for payment in cash.
Header image: © muratart
